On the beach

There are two beaches of note in Coigach. One is at Achnahaird on the northern side of the peninsula, the other at Badentarbet on the south side. Achnahaird is a lovely half-moon of white sand curving around to cliffs on one side and a spattering of cottages on the other. Behind the sand is a great semi-circle machair - dunes and grass with little streams meandering down to join the sea. The mountains stand out in all their individuality viewed across the expanse of sea and sand. In the summer the sand is littered with tourists and caravans but for most of the year it is lovely and wild - most beautiful with a dusting of snow on the mountaintops. On the west side, above the beach, is the sheep fank - a series of stone enclosures with a little green in front of the pens where we spent many a sweaty but glorious day working with neighbors at the shearing.

Badentarbet beach stretches between the eastern end of Polbain and the western end of Achiltibuie. Here lie the remains of its fishing past - huge floats and anchors collect rust and form a picturesque centerpiece for artists and photographers. When we lived there, salmon nets stretched drying on the grass above the beach. At the Badentarbet pier "The Captain" ushered tourists aboard his lovely wooden fishing-cum-touring boat, Hectoria, heading for a day out among the islands to view seals and sea birds and the beauties of the rugged island shores. There would be a stop for a picnic on Tanera with time to clamber up through the heather to the high point of the island for a view of the Summer Isles stretched out below. Now it has changed as all things must -"The Captain" and the Hectoria are gone - and the salmon are grown in cages. But the islands still lie there in the changing light of clouds and sea and there is still a boat to get you out there.